Ancash, WI3, 25m
FA – G. Cornell, Jan., 2007
Park at an ‘Erosion Sign’ about 3km west of the ice route Solstice along the Sibbald road. Visible from the road tucked in the trees, it faces south, forms in December but is better as the season heads into the springtime. Makes a good beginner lead or harder as the route thins out requiring some sketchy rock moves.
From the Erosion sign (across from a southbound forestry road and where the main road begins to descend down to Highway 40) and a open cutblock, walk north into the cutblock and into trees. Find flagging and make your way on the right side of a shallow ravine. Go up right passing the Ancash Boulder then left into the open gully of the waterfall. Twenty minutes from the road.
Climb a short but steep step to a ledge with a large tree. Continue up the ice to the top of the gully. Rap from trees or walk off left.
The Ancash Boulder(V3) from the hashed out landing, SS low from O.K. pulls and reach up, mantle slab and work up thin holds. This was done in 2007. This boulder has an R rating regardless of difficulty but only because the groundfall factor sucks. However, this one route doesn’t get an R rating as it’s likely the only line somewhat hazard free on the whole boulder.