BBQ’d Rib, 5.6, 140m, West End Yamnuska
FA- Greg McDougall and Orvel Miskiw, 2014
As the photo below shows, this is located on the far west end of Yamnuska before one heads up scrambling to the summit.
Suggested Gear: 50 or 60 M Rope, 5 nuts (Every other size) Cams: .5,1,2 and 3 smaller TCUS or take an extra 1.
Pitch One: 5.6 (25 M):
Right of Chimney Cricket and the prominent Y-crack on the slab. Climb the slab close to the ridge (5.6) directly to the first bolt. Climb easy terrain along the ridge, angling left to another bolt. Avoid the off-width corner directly above and head left up the slab to a 2-bolt anchor.
Pitch 2: 5.6 (25 M):
From the belay either step out left on the slab to the crack or go straight up from the belay following the ridge to a bolt below an overlap and a large block (to the left). Head out left onto the large block. From there scramble up easy ground to the bay at the base of the large Y-chimney to a comfortable 2-bolt belay. You can also sling a horn directly above the belay.
Pitch 3: and 4: 5.6 ( 25 or 50 Meters (rope stretcher at 50 if combined))
Climb up to the Right of the left side of the Y-gulley on the rib to a bolt. Continue up the ridge to another bolt. Move left onto the rib as the gully ends on the South Face. Continue climbing the rib between the gullies and on the edge of the south face (the left gully is Chimney Cricket) past 2 bolts protecting the hardest moves to another bolt and a potential belay stance on a pedestal (25M – bolt can be backed up with gear). Continue if you desire up easy but slightly loose ground on the ridge to the top of the gully (There is a horn/block at the top which can be slung). Continue up through some bulges to a flat open area and a bolt beside the first bush. Belay here: you can back up the bolt with natural gear.
Pitch 5: 5.4 or 5.6 (25 Meters)
Scramble up slabs to the big blob of rock. There are two prominent gullies splitting the blob. Either head up the gullies to the ridge at 5.4 or take a more enjoyable and interesting route (recommended) up the clean slab to the left of the left-most gully and climb a short bouldering problem up a clean right-facing corner/slab (5.6) and pull over the wall on excellent holds. Above the “blob” either belay in cracks or body-belay on the ridge.
Continue walking/scrambling up to the BBQ Ledge. From there you can walk off (left/NW) or choose one of the West-End finishes.
