Chinook Chute, WI3R 160m
FA – G.Cornell, Jan., 2005
Wait for a Chinook until the surrounding hillsides are somewhat blown free of snow. It is the leftmost ravine before large cliffs along Opal Ridge about 3.5km north of Fortress junction or 2km north of the ice route ‘Glossolalia‘ (WI3).
Park at a “Authorized Vehicles Only” sign and the first pitch can been easily seen from a grassy knoll above the highway where you should also park.
Walk up the old road for 100m to a cutline of high powerlines. Walk north a bit and hike through thinning trees eventually to the rocky creekbed that leads directly to this deep ravine. Drop in from the left just before the ice. About 30-45 minutes.
Climb a thick steep 5m pillar. Walk/climb for 100m up the snow/ice ravine. At the end of the ice, move into a trippy, 1m wide, parallel sided chute (gap in the bedding plane). A delicate vein of ice (1-2″ thick) goes up the entire steep 60m, the crux tooling over a bulge near the top. Exit out right then up forested ice (seep that feeds the chute). Go right and down. Rap a tiny cliff and hike slopes back to the start. Few screws and pins are plenty.