established summer 2012, G.Cornell
A hard-to-get-to group of hard conglomerate boulders in a lovely setting upon the side of a hill overlooking Mt.Baldy and the Lusk Valley.
Park at Lusk Creek picnic area about 1.5km east of Hwy #40, down the gravel Sibbald Road #68. Cross the road or culvert and come into a meadow. Walk up and east onto the Old Lusk Trail or some off shoot of it and this good trail winds up about the deep ravine of Lusk Creek and has some nice viewpoints especially the best view you will get looking down the Sibbald Road corridor heading up east. This trail mostly climbs but has many spot that are cruise along. Maybe 1.5km to the point when you will see the boulders and will need to find a way down. As of this writing from Old Lusk Creek trail junction for the boulders, has not been approached down through the ravine but it stil likely better than the original way which will be explained in detail at a later date. Expect an hour to this junction point.
Most of the landings are flat and clutter free. Hiking boots and bugspray are a must as is bearspray.
***THIS IS THE ORIGINAL APPROACH BETA BUT IS BETTER FROM LUSK CREEK OLD TRAIL***: Park and hike as per Summer Evening Crag, but once on the ‘road of logs’ that cuts north-south across the meadow, follow it south. Soon you will come upon an island of trees in the monstrous cutblock. Continue around right and when it opens up, go left up a dirt berm onto the upper meadow to the SE. Aim for a large pine tree that has its’ top sheared off. Continue SE to a boulder. From here, descend (flagging) into the dense drainage. Duck under a tree, and go left to a creek hop-over. Now the crux: bash up the opposite lush hillside via a fallen tree. Pop out onto the meadow again! Go down the meadow west aiming for a small conglomerate boulder. Ignore the log-strewn road descending downward. Instead, turn left and head 300m to the very SW end of the meadow aiming for the highest and very obvious lone pine tree.
Coveted Birds boulders are hidden just below the hillside below. Expect 30 minutes from the Summer Evening Crag.
No grades, these routes V2 or less. Much harder stuff awaits the young guns.
A)Pebblehead- when first descended from ridge above you come across helmeted looking face. Its the NW corner. Climb the pebbles using a pull on the right.
B)Sloganerring- steep grey cobbled face right of the south west arete on the same boulder as Pebblehead. Crux is pulling over the top!
C)I Know An Old Man Who Lived in Rockshoes- triangular boulder to the south. Up the face left of the tree on orange and grey cobbles. Certain moves go out left onto slab to top.
D)Ramp Locals- go up western point of rock on slab to small overlap and over
E)Black Crow- many different lines on this south facing black face
F)Bumpy Road- dipped-in slab beside the main large face. Only use is for better view of the main face.