routes by G.Cornell, winter-summer 2006
River Crossings: likely the best two options to cross are near the beginning. The First Crossing option is at a spot between the Beaver Flat campground and Old Tracheodon where the river is broken with a sandbar at some rocks. For the Second Crossing, hike down the trail from Old Tracheodon about 150m and find a low erratic just off the trail. There is a cairn built directly on the Father side.
Depending on the river crossing you choose, hike up the bank and walk south along the rim. From the First Crossing it’ll be about 200m and from the Second Crossing only a few feet until a narrow forest cutline( flags) appears. For boulders along the river simply continue hiking parallel to the river, but for routes in the upper forest take this cutline.
Follow it straight for 50m and at the hillside, go into the trees 25m to the Enchanted Forest Boulder. From here, gain the hill above staying on the ridge proper until you pop over the upper rim and into woods and soon the Lego Piece. From here it is possible to take a multitude of ways to catch onto boulders but following flagging may be the best choice.
It is very easy to get lost on the Father side of things, but to get back to the river it is recommended to either return this way or descend the ridge directly from Southern Depression. It is also a very pleasant walk to follow just above the rim overlooking the valley. To just hike from the Lego Piece up into the Asteriod Belt to Pluto, past the Tree of Knowledge and down Southern Depression, and along the rim back to the Lego Piece, takes about 40 minutes. Some bizarre Alberta bouldering!
WARNING: any act of climbing like bouldering can be dangerous or fatal-like they say every fall is a ground fall so use all precautions: cleared landings, pads, helmuts, and especially spotters. Beware of loose rock or gravel on topouts. Use extreme caution when making any river crossings. Use at your own risk!
49)Bonzai Pipeline, V1** Get up into the upper rim forest.Walk along the rim to a cairn-it’s just below on the slope but has good staging. Layback left edge, mantle the flat top.
50)Okra, VB Just past choss cliff go up a open grass slope to enter Upper Father. Easy @8am Next face up: SS from heuco, VB.
51)Flintstone Vitamin, V0* Obscure formation, short but funky sculpture. SS up crack, stem left to the ledge and slap over bulbous top.
52)Arco, VB SS and go over the bulge.
53)Coco Fungus, V1* Hike up and right into the woods to a slight ravine then up and left. From a critter’s nest, go up dirty grey to the white strip and move into corner and paw around the dark bulge left to the top.
54)Brokeback Boulder, V0-2** From CocoFungus, hike over left. SS off nice toe hold up jugs or try the harder left snout. SS off a sweet flake and up to easier ground. Conservative types may refuse to give it a chance.
55)Ghostflake, V1* SS throw off heuco, over and up.
56)Rock 245, VB SS go up the simple face.
57)Oscar Goldman, V0 From a hallow behind a slab, head up nice but tad dirty rock holds.
58)Pegleg, V1* A balancing sphere behind the slab. SS north side on fun, steep holds.
59)Smokejumper’s, VB/2 An interesting spot since many parts of this forest have a burnt layer barely below the living ground-cover and a well built rock stove sits here but the moss inside indicates it hasn’t been used in many decades. Could it have been the camp of forest fire workers? On the west, SS up ugly orange-white flakes that are unbelievably stable to weedy top. b)much harder option is to start on the low south end behind tree to huge white heuco, layback the arete to prickly dish and traverse off right.
60)Sushiboat, V1* a)Up grey north face b) SS the south hole to pockets and over where sushi lunch is in the photo at right.
61)Moby Dick, V0 SS from heuco, traverse this short, slick boulder.
62)The Lego Piece, V0 HB* The first boulder you should come to after hiking from E.Forest approach, 50m from hill rim. a) from lowest big hole, connect em all up right and finish over a smooth grey crux bulge. b)climb north face on pockets to a bum bulge. c)SS tiny mossy face using crack and divot to rattling flake, don’t topout.
109) Mutual Alajeula, V1* Hike up open slopes to white face hidden behind a tree. Crouch face, layback the north groove. Easy traverse to do too.
110) Magnet Guy, V0* Just downhill. SS tiny ‘hang on fun moves and good rock.
111) Mork, V0 50m south of Siege. Different ways to tackle the bald slab.
112) Siege Wall, V0-2*** A big boulder with many hard projects to do. Sits just above the rim over looking the river set back from a small fanout of talus. Good place to enjoy a break and eat/suntan. a) From heucos on the north side, follow up a ramp and topout near the overhung edge. b) Very fun line with a committing finish on the south face, SS off super white jug-dish, traverse left using a pocket and great undercling, move out just at the overhang and go up cranking off a horn. The true overhang could be done a few ways.
113) God’s Eye, V1* SS and go directly over the prow, a rock found behind the Siege Wall.
114) Porn ‘stache, V0 Traverse striped wall, bit dirty. A faint trail from here down along the rim gets ya back to Flintstone Vitamin.
115) Fisticuff, V0** Better than it looks! From the lower end, traverse under the overlap to the far upper jug and move back up right.
116) Emergency, V1 SS under the lip and use dirty grips to mantle to upper boilerplate.
117) Love, V0* SS right edge, traverse left and off good jug grab the flake laying down.
118) Throb Rock, V2** Go up the left side of overhung face from a crouch start to meet high pockets. Can follow cairns from here south to reach Pelt Hawker and Southern Depression.
119) New Camp 4, V1* Found in the open talus. SS under a blank bulge and use the finger crack using right or left sides to overcome it. Maybe with the nearby Beaver Flats Campground this area will get some multiple day traffic.
120)Blowdown Boulder, VB* Best access is to follow cairns south along faint animal trail out from “Gill’s on My Email.” An area at the base of timber destruction. SS up side of the nose on pockets, good easy starter.
121) Skin Sliver, VB Up from Blowdown, SS off petrified rail and go up.