routes by G.Cornell, winter-summer 2006
River Crossings: likely the best two options to cross are near the beginning. The First Crossing option is at a spot between the Beaver Flat campground and Old Tracheodon where the river is broken with a sandbar at some rocks. For the Second Crossing, hike down the trail from Old Tracheodon about 150m and find a low erratic just off the trail. There is a cairn built directly on the Father side.
Depending on the river crossing you choose, hike up the bank and walk south along the rim. From the First Crossing it’ll be about 200m and from the Second Crossing only a few feet until a narrow forest cutline( flags) appears. For boulders along the river simply continue hiking parallel to the river, but for routes in the upper forest take this cutline.
Follow it straight for 50m and at the hillside, go into the trees 25m to the Enchanted Forest Boulder. From here, gain the hill above staying on the ridge proper until you pop over the upper rim and into woods and soon the Lego Piece. From here it is possible to take a multitude of ways to catch onto boulders but following flagging may be the best choice.
It is very easy to get lost on the Father side of things, but to get back to the river it is recommended to either return this way or descend the ridge directly from Southern Depression. It is also a very pleasant walk to follow just above the rim overlooking the valley. To just hike from the Lego Piece up into the Asteriod Belt to Pluto, past the Tree of Knowledge and down Southern Depression, and along the rim back to the Lego Piece, takes about 40 minutes. Some good and interesting Alberta bouldering!
36)Enchanted Forest, V0** From the left, go up and traverse right dropping down at the arete to enjoy some nice heucos then turn it. Or SS far right overhang bump and go over. To get to the Upper Father, go behind the rock, up the hill and pop onto the top rim. Follow cairns 50m into the forest to the first wall, which is the Lego Piece.
37)Kananaskis Klassic, V1***HB First wall down the river. Hike up to it passing a fallen dead tree. From the center, follow a group of heucos up left then surmount the grey slab. If you don’t agree highball, at least you’ll have a touch of fear. Possible problems can be tried on the sides.
38)Grassy Knoll, VB Boulders in grass, SS go up leveled off crack to top.
39)Tour Tantrum, V3** SS far right edge off good crimp rail to tuff hold and jugs.
40)Cheat Tree, V2* Crouch start using arm span, tree rests the arm at one point allowing slab crimp. Needs a clean ascent.
41)Columbus’ New Shoe, V4* SS out of hallow-the weed sucks – use massive hueco way low, quick hold before throw to the juggy arete, pull up and get up. The right side overhang to the slab is a project.
42)Quick Hill, V1** Small face in the scree below a choss cliff. SS off nice ledge, work yourself left then right and off. Perfect daybreak route.
43)Concussion, VB About as fun as the name-SS undercling. Just after the short talus slope few feet off the path.
44)Tai Chi Sandbar, V0* Big low chunk near the river. Start on south side, traverse to low blind move around the nose and end near the tree, good warmup.
45) GG Boulder, V0-2*** An outcrop down from the Father. a)go over bulge left of tree to ledge and over. Done in the winter, topout stones froze making secure finish, but slid off in spring with a light touch.b)SS v-notch in left corner and use flat ledges to ascend up left. c)best line-SS next to stump, to flake and up.
46) The Father Boulder, V0-2*** A big dark boulder of superb rock a little way up the slope. a)go up NW corner and layback steep prow moving over it and onto the west ledges. b)from the tree corner, follow ramp with scoops, move under bulge and fire up to lighter grey rock-direct before the bulge on black face would be cool. c)near top south end go up black streak on fun dishes and heucos.
47)A Stihl Boulder, VB* Walk around the hillside ridge, go along the river until a boulder and log jam seem impassable. Sawed logs show that work was done here years ago. SS and connect the hueco dots, easy but fun.
48)Darwin Award, V1 Scramble over the log jam and around. This problem is only doable in the coldest winter when a solid layer of ice is anchored beneath it-it’s under rapids the rest of the year. However, it is astronomically stupid -use extreme caution! At the very edge of the ice, SS off nice foot huecos and link more until you can exit the slab on a crimp and if you fall you may crash into the river, become hypothermic and die, thus, a Darwin Award! Finish on slab left of snow patch in the photo. Don’t actually climb this route!
50)Okra, VB Just past choss cliff go up a open grass slope to enter Upper Father. Easy @8am Next face up: SS from heuco, VB.
51)Flintstone Vitamin, V0* Obscure formation, short but funky sculpture. SS up crack, stem left to the ledge and slap over bulbous top.