FAs- G.Cornell rope solo, Sept.2014
Thanks to the Flood of 2013, the valley above the old climbing cliff Kilowatt Crag has been ‘gentrified': prior to the floods the valley was somewhat a heinous bushwack hike up due to excessive bush in the drainage making it nasty as we found out in 1999 while approaching our multi-pitch route Ivana Humpalot. Now all that nasty bush has been removed by the power of mother nature leaving a rather casual, easy-to-hike drainage in 20 minutes from the car to these three fun routes.
Park along the dead-end grassy road off the sharp bend of Hwy#40 across from the east ridge of Mt.Lorette and about 1km south of Lorette Ponds.
The metal tower should be obvious with the old slabby Kilowatt Crag to its’ left.
Hike up into the meadow and go up the middle-right end to catch the trail or simply follow the open creek bed. Soon you will pass a collapsing wood bridge and the metal tower with Kilowatt Crag behind it. In early September you may see hunters around here and bears so go equipped with the necessary precautions. From the bridge, walk up the step-like boulders for another ten minutes till you are about to turn left at a corner in the creek. Watch for a cairn here just in the bush, get onto a slight trail for a minute of walking up to the base of the pleasant slabs. The area below the slabs is a good place to suit up and have lunch.
Recommended gear is Rocks #1-8, tricams, TCUs and #2 cam.
Routes listed left to right:
1) Givareth, 5.7 – from the staging area walk up a gravel trail to its’ end at a tree. Climb the left-facing corner to a bolt, a fixed pin, then pass a higher bolt and a 2-bolt belay at the top. (20m) Rap.
2) SPB6, 5.8 - found directly above basecamp. Start from a belay bolt and angle up and right to a vegetated ledge with a nice #6 chock slot. Go up right, making an awkward move up left then traversing back right onto the broken ledge with a bolt near the corner. Climb the narrow corner and move left near the its’ end to exit and end at the large burly tree. Rap. (20m)
3) Portlandia, 5.7 – from basecamp, take a gravel trail right and up to the next slab in a few minutes. From a one bolt belay, go up lovely slab to a bolt. From the good ledge go right and up the corner then left under a small overlap and continue up sweet textured jugs to a 2-bolt belay. Rap. (20m)