Le Petite Morte 400m, 5.2

FA- G.Cornell and J.Miller, Aug. 2007

Keep these two fathers safe was the main thoughts on our minds as we descended from a new route up the deep north gully of a unnamed ridge/peak sandwiched between Wintour and Gap and directly above east of the famous ice climb called Whiteman’s.

A fast-to-access peak due to the highly -situated Elpoca Viewpoint parking lot, we hiked through woods abd around to the north flanks in just over an hour. Le Petite Morte is a deep cut in the north ridge, only meters wide in parts and its’ overgrowth in rubble is like finding an ancient temple in a jungle.

Jonathon forgot his helmet so I accepted the risk above as I was leading entirely. After a early impasse detoured left, the gully is impossible to lose. At the crux, a bowl that exits the ridge we discovered our rope had been cut at exactly the half way mark. Sheeesh.

Just before the summit a second exposed crux along the ridge left us frightened with this helpless rope. Soon came the cairn.

Please note the descent from here along the south ridge is exposed, has poor rock for anchors and requires rope and pitons.