McGillvary Cave (The Vault) Aid Ladder
This ones a bit of a mystery, about 3.5 Stars in the obscure scale. An apparent bolt aid ladder appeared in the the long cave at McGillvary Slabs at least 10 years ago but maybe I just never looked up before that time. Or was it intended to be a dry tooling line? It is a spectacle none-the-less.
Hike from the Trans-Canada up the trail to the slabs. About half way up if you dip into the woods at a bend, there is an old guiding log cabin sitting cool and alone. Continue up to the cave which is about 50m before you get to….well any old route, the cave is obvious and worth putting on headlamps for. Of recent there is a large abundance of spray paint in the walls in some of the rooms where parties, satanic rituals or whatever takes place. Unfortunately I have to say in all honesty that some of its pretty artistic, but fully think this should not be condoned.
The Blue Wall Aid Lines
FA- K.Watson and partners, a number of years ago
The lines that were aided on are immediately west of the waterfall and if you approach via the Trans-Canada Trail and take the path leading to the waterfall, as soon as you have a clear view of the base of the fall you also get a good view of the practice aid wall to the right (west). They referred to it as the Blue Wall because the rock had a slightly different color, sort of a blue/green tint maybe from being wet or exposed to water, but it is very obvious how smooth the rock is that is has been water worn at some point over time. Where they started the options were limited to a few fine vertical cracks. One of them was so fine in fact it required a number of hook moves to get in a position to put in their first piece which was a tied off KB. Both of the lines there are definitely nail-up’s, you can leave all the cams & nuts at home with the exception of some really small wired brass nuts, it was all kb’s, beaks/peckers & rurp’s . They managed to get in one Lost Arrow into an intersecting vertical/horizontal crack.
There is a tree’d ledge about 60’ish feet up with small tree’s just large enough to rap off of. Between the ground and that ledge it’s a total pucker fest though. It’s not technically that difficult it’s just the lack of any pro worthy of holding more then body weight except for 1-2 pieces that gives it the sphincter factor. I guess you’d call it A3, only because it falls into the “many tenuous placements in a row” category. There are however lots of alternatives for anyone with a moderate aid rack & a little imagination.