Medicine Bro

FA- I.Gosney and P.Jones, June 2013

A four pitch 5.6 alt start to Cadot Crack. The start is left of Cadot Crack by a large arch connected to the wall. The upper pitches of Cadot lacked protection, and you should be comfortable with runout 5.7 slab climbing. Bring hammer and pins, and standard rack.

Park in the same parking pullout as for “Cadot Crack” along Medicine Lake. See “Jasper Rock” by David Robinson. A photocopy version can be picked up at More Than Mail in Jasper.

Go up the avalanche path as described in “Jasper Rock”. Once the main wall is reached, continue climber’s right up the slope and down the other side, then up the slope again until you reach a rock arch connected to the main wall. The start of “Medicine Bro” is climber’s left of the arch a few meters. “Medicine Bro” start should be roughly 100m climber’s left of “Cadot Crack”.

The start of the climb is easier marked than “Cadot Crack” given the arch. There is no fixed pro but the protection is good where you need it. The rock is good quality, and we thought the rock was better quality compared to the upper pitches of “Cadot Crack”. All of the belays are gear and require a good selection of smaller pieces. Bring many slings and a standard rack to 3 inch. 60m half ropes would be advantageous for potential rappels and reducing rope drag. Hammer and pitons may be helpful for the belays. Once at the top of the 4th pitch, walk climber’s right along the large ledge for about 50m to connect with “Cadot Crack” at a bolted anchor. The decent is unknown, as the first accent party continued up “Cadot Crack”; however it may be possible to rappel down via trees on the left side of the route or rappel “Cadot Crack”, bring webbing regardless.

Cadot Crack, 5.6/7

FA- P.Amann and A.Henault

You can see the route from the Maligne Lake Road near the east end above Medicine Lake. Find a pullout on the lake side before Jacques Lake and spot the rightward crack and hike up via avalanche path found just east of the car. Turn left at the rockband and follow cairns to the starting point.

A 12 pitch route with some fixed pro. Ask in town about descent.

Info and photos are supplied from Patrick Jones on his ascent with friend Ian Gosney.