Mt. McGillvary New Routes

Many years ago, I was given this dinnertable-placemat-laminated-artwork of new routes on McGillvary Slabs loving the obscure thought gone into such a printing project. Later I met and drank with the author of this info sheet on the occasion and learned he was one of the original skidder operators whom leveled the Sibbald Road in the mid-1970s. He and his two sons along with various friends had also been accumulating obscure ascents in and about Kananaskis which impressed me and their seeming lack of exploiting their finds much.

These have not been on paper before but were in the final Kananaskis Obscure #3. Kevin Watson and his friends also were close friends to Tony Devonshire and atop one of their new McGillvary routes named after Tony placed a good sized cairn and register upon topping out. They have established some practice aid routes around the north corner enroute to the winter ice climbs but the info for those is yet to extracted from the route builders….along with many more….

Faye, 230m 5.9

FA- Kevin Watson, Brendan Ramsey, Kyle Watson, Ryan Swift (2005)

This a good gear route with all the anchors/raps being bolted and bolts or pins are in place where it is runout. Bring cams to 2.5”, nuts, Tricams, medium Hexes, 4-6 runners

Clan Line, 200m 5.10

FA- Kevin Watson, Kyle Watson, Eric Watson (2009)

Bolted belays and tree anchors. An interesting bolted start takes you up an obvious weakness with some natural features. Cams to 3”, nuts, Tricams, hexs, KB’s, 4-6 runners

Troubled Beginnings, 210m 5.9

FA- Brendan Ramsey, Kevin Watson, Kyle Watson (2009)

Interesting mixed slab and feature climbing, challenging protected friction moves. Your gear should include cams to 3”, nuts, Tricams, hex’s, KB’s and SA’s, 4-6 runners

Corvus, 230m 5.9

FA- Kevin Watson, Kyle Watson, Eric Watson (2009)

A stiffer start with most of pitch 1 and 2 at 5.5/6 and the upper sections need heavy gardening. If you go, bring a full set of nuts, cams to 2”, Tricams, hex’s, KB’s and 6-8 runners