Quickie problems on worthwhile rock, up to V2. Bring a pad and a spotter as the fall is on a slight slope. Best not to boulder here in the mid-week as it sits very close but not on land used by dumptrucks – if you go, go in the setting sun. Drive Hwy#1A and park in the lot designated for those accessing Rat’s Nest Cave. Walk north into the trees and take the good trail through and around the creek washout following it up the opposite side. After only a minute if, cross down the rubble slope and directly east(cairns) to a exposed section of grey rock. Again, do not go anywhere near the gravelpit. Few problems tackle the center face or traverse in low from the left, topouts are the crux. 5 minutes from the car. Cleaned in 2007.
The Baldspot problems are all on the central grey section of the rockwall.
Approach comes in from the left side of the pic below in slideshow.
Leo ‘61 Boulder
Very weird: someone hiked all the way up here and scrawled LEO BRE?? in some sort of green lime in what kinda reads ‘61 or 1981. The blank face with its’ slab topout was attempted but could not be fully completed.
Park at Gap Lake off the #1A.Walk west up the road to a red marker in the ditch. Hike above the rock scar to the open ridge. Walk up it in ten minutes. Hike up left toward a grassy gully and follow this up for 1/2hr. It’s in the woods and hard to find! The compact cliffs you see hiking up are nice.
Porcupine Creek Boulder
Park as for Porcupine Creek in K-Country. Follow trail along the creek to the forks and take the left option. Continue along the rocky ground for about half an hour to where the valley tightens in with walls, the boulder sits where it opens up again to a open flood plain.
Murray Ridley ‘81(V0) kinda SS the smooth face that bears the scratched-in name and enjoy fun jug flakes up and over. Do-able in hiking boots.
From Canmore, take the Smith-Dorien south and about 500m past the bridge that crosses the canal is a large pullout at the base of a gravel pit/scree washout.Walk up to a boulder group at the pit’s right side, and hike up to the pit top and just in the woods is a low low boulder, about 4 minutes from the car. Various problems and traverse have been done on the Rainshadow Boulder. Cleaned in 2007.
This is not the same as the Buller Boulder(see Kananaskis Obscure #2) but very nearby. Random, mostly unclimbed scattered boulders coming down from the north side of Buller; go explore maybe something will come of it. Drive Smith-Dorien south past the Spray Lakes Dayuse a few kilometers to a large parking area on the east side of the road. Walk directly into the deep woods ten pretty minutes to where the forest ends at the open slopes/boulderfield. Two boulders can be found near each other above. A long way up the high east slope is a few more climbed-on lines and from here if you walk due north ten minutes also high up is a lone boulder easily seen from the car amongst flowers.
The single Buller Boulder is on the far left(north) side of the boulder slide which touches the Smith-Dorrien and is found a short drive further north up the road from the previous slides. Park in a big pullout on the west fronting the slide. Hike down and over left 100m. Only 6ft tall it’ll take a whole 10 minutes outta your life, less than the movie did!
A – Buller Circle(V0) start near the back tree and traverse the entire rock, changing to the lower ledge on the west.
B- Buller’s Day Off(V0) SS on the west face, hard reach to a fin, grab one step then the flat top and up.
Hard to spot, sitting along a secluded part of the east shore of Spray Lake it’s only a minute from the car making it a nice lunch spot or morning coffee. Named after a infamous Banff artifact kept at the Indian Trading Post, this polished 7ft egg sits with driftwood and Mt.nestor views. Park on the west 1km past Spurling Creek.Opposite side should be a landscaped hill. Peer thru tree curtain to see it which obscures any gawkers. Climbed in 2004/5.
A-East Face (VB) up slab seam, no sides.
B-NE Arete (V3) SS, bad feet, dyno up to the ledges.
C-NW Face (V0) up face using shallow corner. Pad in pic
D-(VB) go up the depression facing the lake.
Upper Beach Boulders
A great place to escape, suntan and do two small but kinda fun boulder problems on a beach with an amazing view of the lake.
Park as for the Everest Expedition Trail and follow it for five minutes to a fork. Go right(west) briefly and find a way down to the obvious boulders on the beach. Find the perfect couch-like spot against a tilted slab for your blanket and then spot the two boulders in front of another. Climb each face for what it’s worth.
If you hike south on the ridge overlooking the water, you will pass the remnants of an old chimney that was once a homestead, continue out onto the photogenic peninsula to relax.