Ribbed For Your Pleasure, 5.8R 3 pitches (apparently retro-bolted!)
FA- G.Cornell and N.Kavaja, Sept. 1994
This is a fun three pitch runout route that also can be found with further info in Dave Robinson’s 1999 Jasper Rock book. It can be easily seen just before the parking lot for Medicine Lake if you look back NW. The long low slab (Rainy Day Slabs) has a single treed island half way up and this route goes just left of the island and straight to the top. Many forgotten lines have been done on Rainy Day Slabs especially way far west near Big Rock. About 40m left of this sport route one will find a few old pitons randomly down a line, that we now believe may be an old 1970s route by Allison Clough and Pete Charkiw.
Neil Kavaja was a fisherman and waiter at Becker’s Chalets were we both worked. He accompanied me on a number of ascents in those days moreso to be outdoors than to summit peaks. He brought his trusty dog with him everywhere he went. We narrowly dodged an avalanche together on Mt.Diadem and we both fell asleep on a narrow section of ridge along CR2 once drained from the summer heat. He was killed in an avalanche on the backside of Marmot in April of 1995. RIP my friend.
Ribbed For Your Pleasure- spot the treed island and B-line it from Medicine Lake parking lot bushwacking through trees and game trails for over an hour. You can approach from Big Rock but the cliff undulates further east and is very annoying in spots and is hard to spot where you may exactly be. Work your way up to a high tree once you locate yourself below and left of the treed island.
From the tree, climb narrow straight up and right to a very high bolt. Two more bolts are found before a two bolt belay(5.6/7 50m). Continue up on 3-4 more bolts and thin runnels to a two bolt belay(5.6/7 50m). From here two hanging shrubs exist above the belay. Step onto a small footledge, and your last, and take miniscule dark streaks and vanishing runnels on 3-4 bolts, moving over the tiny dirt forest edge and belay off a huge tree. (5.8 50m) Bring long sling to rappel off this. Rainy Day Slabs is a mandatory helmet zone….apparently it has since been retro-bolted!
My Own Private Idaho, 5.7X
FA- G.Cornell solo, July 1994
A solo found about 10m or so left of Ribbed and basically goes straight up to under an obvious tree 50m up passing lone bushes along the way. Get onto the tree’s turf and make committing moves right, to the treed island and hike down a weeded gully below it.