Balcony Rightend, V1
cleaned/climbed by G.Cornell Aug 2016
This bouldering problem was recently cleaned and climbed on what appears to be a new area at Roche Lake called The Balcony. It is a fun little chill area found directly above the main roped climbing wall, and is great for bouldering or top roping from a single set of anchors found atop the small cliff. The majority of this bluff was cleaned except the right slab and this route is located on the far rightend of the slab. Local developers left scrub brushes on a stump so why not get a little dirty and link a route! The far left lower crack on the bluff was also cleaned. The Balcony is great for traversing and is a perfect relaxation spot.
To get to Roche Lake, drive 35km from Kamloops south on highway 5A. You will pass Knutsford Campground – a good quiet, treed campsite with some pleasant tent sites next to a babbling brook – and the road makes some curves past a lake or two. Watch for signs to Roche Lake Provincial Park. The turnoff east is just past a bend. Follow this road for about 7.3km and the Park entrance will come up on your right. Follow the main road turning left in about 400m, then another left. Another half kilometer and a large tree divides the road, take a left again and it will follow back NW. Somewhere along this stretch watch for a large fat tree with a swing attached above the road. After 2.5km the road heads up and into trees and watch for the Roche Lake welcome board on the right and the climbing wall seen through the trees. park off the road.
To get to The Balcony, the main trail hugs the cliff and from there it is hard to pinpoint where it goes upward to get atop the entire outcrop. So an easier way is take the wood stairs down to the bottom. At the looming slab climbing wall, go left and walk up the dry rock bed and once the cliffband ends, dodge around a few fallen trees and go up into the woods. Find the obvious way up to the next low cliffband and turn right and follow a 3m wide trail up along a rockwall. Go past a tree and take some natural grey rock steps up and left. Go left along a flat area until The Balcony presents itself. This pretty way is about 10 minutes from the car. Take note of climbers below when walking along this trail however it is fairly clean of loose rock and debris.
Balcony Rightend V1
Found on the very far left end of the Balcony. Use a good starter footpod and trend up right heading up to a narrow left-facing sidepull high up. Reach high to a slot and take the crack right making an awkward finish beside a tree. Downclimb from tree ledge of pine needles.