Spelunker’s Door 5.8 A1 or 5.10a, 50m
FA- G.Cornell and T.Devonshire, Aug.2000
Bring a headlamp if the climb tempts one to see if this could actually be anything of a cave system for Goat. The route is very obvious from the west col of Yam as a deep crack directly above the blatant square scree slope which can be seen from Hwy #1(and Calgary!) Hike up to the west col of Yam, take an undulating animal trail in the woods to the yellow wall of Goat. Hug the cliff, clamber around a tree and keep along the cliff until you reach the deep grey gash.This wall has been tried(hangerless bolts) and the gash makes a fun TR from a slung chockstone. Walk down and around to start the route in a open book corner. A few more crack lines need an ascent like the sweet one to the left that goes up 2-3 pitches and roof on this detached part of Goat Wall dubbed Sundingo Tower. To the right, TR problem in dark slot; need 2 bolt hangers to reach fixed sling, back up with 5-6” cam or go up.
Climb the steep juggy corner to a small ledge. Either aid up the wall on a bolt and 2 rivets or crank over the wobbly flake(10a). Continue up and left(bolt) to the big ledge and carefully traverse right to the cave door and 2 bolt rap belay. Any further development here will likely need the odd bolt as the cracks are a little wider than most peoples gear in these parts. You could spin 2-3 pretty awesome crack pitches above Spelunker’s Door.
Old Cougar Aid
Two different scrappy chunks of rock found on the east side of Cougar Creek that flows into Canmore.
Hike up Cougar Creek not too far, found on the right side or east. Believed to be sport routes now.
The tall wall in the photo below was completed to the top tree alone by an old partner in the late 90s and the red line is only approximate but a small Lost Arrow piton was left in place not far up the wall.