FAs- Peter Smith, Gord Smith and Greg Jackson
Named after an infamous Calgary nightclub, The Republik cliff too is a good place to go. The approach is refreshing and quick and the views get three stars for originality – a beautiful lake shimmering below,prairies to the side, mountains behind – make for a fun time on good rock. The cliff was developed sometime in the early millenium, but has few routes (and the scope is limited), however, it makes a fine way to top off a day in the crowded Bow Valley. Walking takes about 30-40 minutes, half that biking in to the base. Plus, east -facing, the season is long. Park at Barrier Lake Dam. Pass the dam, and follow the road west to the hilltop junction. Go down west, making a scenic deteur onto a dirt track down to the driftwood laced beach(no bikes). Meet up with the road again and stop where McConnell Ridge’s east face ends at the road (Stoney Trail). The sport routes are a short 5 minute hike above on the wavy grey rock which is easily visible from Highway #40.
Enjoy the peacefulness! You may find some abandoned projects to the left and right of this area, notably the sweet rock to the right. Someone go finish it.
Acquired Distaste, 5.11b – right-facing thin steep corner with 8 bolts to a two bolt belay(23m) under a tree.
FA- Peter Smith
Gold Zeplin, 5.10b – three pitch route- 8 bolts(10b, 23m) to a ledge with two bolt belay. Move up and right passing 6 bolts to a two bolt belay on a ledge.(5.7+, 26m) Go straight up on 4 bolts to a two bolt belay.(5.6, 20m) You can continue to the top of the cliff where another two bolt belay is.
FA- Gord Smith, Peter Smith, Greg Jackson
Mansion on the Hill, 5.10c/d – this is an alternate right-hand start to Gold Zeplin, and has 4 bolts before it connects with the middle line.
FA- Peter Smith and Gord Smith