Cornell’s Corner 5.7, 150m
FA- G.Cornell and J.Miller, July 2000
The SE face of Belmore Browne Peak is obvious as you drive south and is one of the more interesting looking peaks along the entire length of the Powderface road. The cornered-slab seen from the road is the way of this rock climb.
From Sibbald Flats in Kananaskis Country, drive the gravel road of the Powderface Trail south for 14.5km and park at a small pull-out.
Hike down to an old trail near a swamp then walk to a huge cutblock. Hike up it and through forest for about 3.5km to the slabby base of the SE face, near the SE ridge. The route takes the wall just right of the big, main corner. From the boulderfield, scramble a short gully right of a gross red chossband. Scramble back left along the ledge towards the big corner to a bad one bolt belay and gear. The hike in is a good two hours. Descent is hiking down the SW slope back to the cutblock.
This is more a mountaineering route than rock route. Recommended gear is a full set of nuts, small Tri-Cams, and medium cams. Oh yeah bring some pitons!
Pitch 1- Do not use the single bolt belay – be safe and just place other gear and avoid it altogether and if someone can remove the hanger please do us all a favour and take it. From here, climb straight up to a notch then a crack on poor rock to a small stance and bolt/gear belay. (25m, 5.7R)
Pitch 2 – A superb pitch, almost worth the hike! Go up slightly left over a tricky bulge(peg placement) and stem towards the corner moving downward on black knobs and excellent rock to a great splitter crack. Follow the clean finger crack up through a slot in the roof to a nice ledge and bolt/gear belay.(30m, 5.7)
Pitch 3 – Traverse left along a ledge then enter a parallel chute with a good crack on the left. Tackle the roof on the right which overlooks the belayer now. Stem the gully and move left to a ledge with a bolt/nut belay.(45m, 5.6)
Pitch 4 – Climb up and left gaining the narrow east ridge to the summit.(50m, 5.5)