Central Groove, 105m 5.8
FA – C.Perry and J.Martin, 1976
This enjoyable route is not as popular as the left side of Crag X and will slowly be forgotten about but the rock and climbing is good. Park along Hwy#1A 1/4km east of Gap Lake picinic area where the train tracks cross the road. Walk down a road for a few hundred meters and go left onto a flagged trail passing a crazy barking dog kennel and go past the north side of the fence. Go through trees further and go up a scree slope when your in the middle of Crag X. It starts in a big corner system with an obvious V-notch. Look for an orange piton part way up.
1.) Climb up into the corner and to a ledge, then left to a bolt belay.(5.7, 25m)
2.) At the left end of the ledge, climb a corner (pin), go up and right across a tricky slab(pins) and traverse into the corner(a relief!) pop in some good gear, and go up to the broken ledges and construct a belay.(5.8, 25m)
3.) Climb groove above to a big ledge with a tree.(25m, 5.5)
4.) A funky bouldery move up a blank black-streaked wall(hard pro)gets ya into a system which is followed to the forest. Tree belay. (30m, 5.7+)