FAs- G.Cornell and B.Clark, Sept. 2017
To climb at the Cut Block- named after the deep split in the east face- drive 6.6km from the Sibbald-Powderface Junction and park in a wide grassy spot on the south side f the road that is large enough for a few vehicles. Always park safely off the road!
Cross the road and go up into the woods and walk directly north a few hundred meters before coming out onto the wide grassy meadow that obviously touches the road. Go west across the meadow to the far NW corner where the meadow ends. Follow flagging on a rising traverse up the steep hillside of fallen timber, but soon onto more level ground. Follow flags up through the pretty forest passing some small boulders and then come out onto a very green meadow(that resembles a ski run) – and your first glimpse of how close the wall is away. Go up the meadow, then go right then over left to its’ end. Hike right(east) into the woods and weave past some small boulders and eventually the main cliff. There is still room for a few new lines like the buttress right of Bong Train.
A 2 minute walk-off climber’s right brings you back to the base.
Superchannel, 5.8 - climb the crack not the face. Use a #5 cam low down if you have it. More of a gear challenge than a climbing one, exit off right at the top, watch for loose rock. Anchor off the tree. Gear used: #5, #4, #2, and 2x #1 cams. #2 purple Bigbro. (15m) Walk off climber’s right.
Bong Train, 5.8 – to the right of Superchannel. Start in the corner and make fun moves under the overhang(or go straight up the orange streak). A #5 cam has a spot right of center but takes some tries to find its best placement. If not a #4 nut in the chockstone works. Climb directly up the steep crack to a bong near the exit off right. Use a tree directly back from the exit to anchor from. Gear used: #5, #4, #2, #1 cams and #9-11 nuts and small nut. (15m). Walk off climber’s right.
Alpine Western, 5.4 – a great final climb as its fun and easy and the top patio-like ledge belay makes for an enjoyable finish. Found on the far left section of the crag, climb a wide crack in a narrow corner(the profile face looks like a bug-eyed man) to a ledge(watch for loose rock). Go left around a pyramid shaped boulder and climb its’ stepped left edge to the top. Good gear cracks for a belay can be found at the back left, of the spotted-green flat large ledge. Gear used: #1, #2, #3, #4, #5 cams and a few #.75-1.5 cams for a belay or similar sized gear. (30m)