Daisy Creek Boulders
cleaned September 2006 G.Cornell
Of the four local areas Daisy is the best to visit. From The Gap, drive west to a T-intersection and go left(west). Head towards Racehorse Campground but about 1.5km before is a signed bridge over Daisy Creek. There is loads of free camping spots in this area and east down the road at a big meadow.
The stone on the south side is not much of anything but can be found 50m off the road over a barbed fence(local cowboy confirmed it’s O.K. to cross). The best rock is a short hop across the creek. Only Daisy Spire is visible and the majority is seconds from the creek along an old road. As of a 2013 visit still a number of unclimbed/cleaned lines.
Now would be the time to make a note that the large overhung south hand crack (10d?)has been climbed to the lip in 2006 and was again attempted in 2010. Prior to a 2013 visit, someone had placed a bolt next to the crack just over the lip and some fairy spaced rap bolts at the top which will form a rather obtuse pull on the bolts so bring long webbing to avoid this. A very sought after boulder problem for southern Alberta, really!!
1)Daisy Spire(V2,HB) at a footstool on the east arete go to undercling hole and right to biggest hole, then up to rim moving up and off to the right. More potential.
2)project traverse crack partway up the bouldery hillside.
3)Utah U.F.O.(V0) red rock next to the road. a)crouch left of birch off finger hole to mid, then dyno up. b)traverse the pine tree side. c) up the red face right of tree up red arete (slab out) to jug and over a mini-roof-kinda feature.
4)Prey(VB) ss east slot of the big Daisy Creek Crack boulder, up nice heucos to munge.
5)Strutter(V2) cram into same slot as Prey, but go up red groove to the top and traverse the boulder off right, good work.
6)Rattler(V0) on back of the big, thin flake left of the Daisy Creek Crack boulder; SS low end off ledge to circular hug and mantle up.
7)Giddy Up(V0) paw up the red west arete of the huge boulder to the overlap – continue or jump off.
8)Steep Wind(V3/4) on the backside of Daisy Creek Crack boulder just left of where the southside crack splits the north face; start off the long ledge at the crack, move to red flake and reach to 2-finger pocket, to hidden pull around the side. Jump down.
9)Thunderbird(V2) black face over west with a fallen birch tree. Up slabby center, use right hole to get left slopers.
10)Little Cub(VB) further west….go up easy jugs on red rock. The next boulder west may be good with a little cleaning.
11)Wolf1(V0) across the road, park before a open field. From a dish on the left go up between two pines to a slab. Harder potential lies on the far right nose and under some moss.
12)Wolf2(VB) 100m west on a old trail. SS edge of the right rock. 13)Wolf3(VB) mantle dinky arete.