established June 2005 ,G.Cornell
From Castle Junction, drive south on Hwy #93 and about 1.5km past the Kootenay entrance signage of B.C., park on the east side at an old overgrown access road.Walk into the field behind and go north 150m to a clay gully which is easy to walk down to the creek. Cross the creek on logs and go up the cutblock directly above. Once the upper creek emerges, follow along it and soon take the hillside that overlooks it. The trail is old and lots of deadfall has blocked parts of it but stay above the creek and don’t go bushwacking! About ten minutes from the car and after the initial steep 100m beginnings of the trail look for a tiny cairn at a dusty section. 25m into the woods is the Bubblegum Boulder.
Only the easy VB right ridge has been climbed. A few very hard lines up the west face.
established June 2005, G.Cornell
To get to the Emerald City, read the above approach for the Bubblegum Boulder, then, follow the trail up dodging trees and much higher up you will have to walk the tops of the grippy burnt logs, which is very convieniet, to link up to the next, a bit of trail, more log walking etc. In about 45 minutes from the car you will stroll along cobbled flats and get the first sightings of Emerald City. Once the forest ends the pile is 15 minutes beyond.
The boulders are split down the center: the left half is grey quartzite with green lichen on most problems and a tuff jumble to hike amongst. the right half is red quartzite, easy to navigate through, zero lichen, better landings and more enjoyable rock. the majority of problems here on both halfs is borderline highballs. Loads of first ascents to do!
Poppies Sweet to the Smell(V1) first rock in the valley. SS the overhung face using the crack to get over bulge.
Elvira Gulch(V0) up face right of arete.
Munchkin(V0) SS up prow on 2 jugs.
The Witch(V1) pinch center of green face, reach for ridge and go straight up.
Broomstick Crack(V0) from far right side of crack under roof, follow it up and around and exit after roof.
Glenda(V0) up north face from heuco.
Ruby Slippers(V1)climb slab red face and grab ridge near the top.
Toto(V0) SS and go up textured face on fun holds.
Horse of a Different Color(V0,HB) go up steep face on two diagonal crack lines.