Fashionably Late, 5.9R 50m
FA- B.Clark and G.Cornell Sept. 2017
The slab area above the road as you drive in, can be found by leaving the main upper parking area and walking back down the road north to a cairn in the woods where a trail to the top of the overlook can be found. Hike up this obvious it for a few minutes until you head off left on a smaller trail to a rounded open spot that overlooks where the cliff basically starts. Hike directly downslope going north through bramble to a piecemeal flagged trail that goes east -always staying about 15m away from the rock. At one point it goes under a huge fallen tree which you can easily walk under – a victim of the 2013 flood that was not there in 2010 when first visited. The trail swings around and up to the main slab cliff. Remnants of a trail from 2010 can be found along the rockwall but is covered by some badly uprooted trees from the flood of 2013, but was since re-rooted further in the woods to avoid an annoying hike.
As of 2017 the main slab just left of Fashionably Late has a few purely bolted routes that go straight up, the left bolted line uses the first bolt of this trad line.
Pitch 1- start at the left end of the slab and go up to a bolt. Climb just left of the bolt to the big ledge(#3 cam here) and walk right and before the obvious shrub blocking the ledge, climb up to under the overlap and use a good horizontal crack(nuts) and traverse right to a cool small flake(pink tricam) and then downclimb a few awkward moves to the good ledge and two bolt belay. This pitch was first climbed in November 2014 by Adam Matais and Greg. (23M, 5.7/8)
Pitch 2 – from the belay climb back up what you downclimbed to a lead bolt on very ice cream looking blank rock that bulges, then go up (a very exciting crux right here) and left once you are under the upper wall, to another bolt. From a good stance to survey the upper rock follow up the corner that is loose and slightly runout in spots passing a #5 cam placement in a chossy hole, some ok nut placements, a fixed pin and eventually the two bolt anchor. Tat was used to rap from this spot and you would need to leave some or leave some hardware behind. Never bothered at the time but you could finish the original route, or sometime as the corner angles back heading to the top, bail off left using the sport bolts and finish it that way. (30m, 5.9R)
This route is kinda dedicated to the spirit of Kelly Tobey’s 1980s development of the Barrier Bluffs across the highway as he said he knew of no routes done on the slab there back-in-the-day. Please climb this route or ignore it and climb the sport routes. Gear used: small tricams, #2, #3, #5 cam, small-medium nuts, TCUs. Best to bring a 70m rope to avoid rapping at the midway station which would not be fun to have to swing into reach.