The Father Son Boulders – The Son Side
routes by G.Cornell, winter-summer 2006
TRAIL: from the road, pop over the guardrail and drop down the scree to a drop overlooking the river. Follow a trail down to an overhung band of rock (Old Tracheodon Wall). Hop over small Rainy Creek and follow a good trail along the bank of the river. The boulders appear within 5 minutes of walking. To get to the Father boulders you must wade the river and extra caution must be used as the height/speed fluctuates with the seasons; it was never above the knee during development – be very careful! A good place to cross is at a small boulder along the trail about 150m past Old Tracheodon – look for a cairn across the river. Another crossing is at a gravelbar between the campground and Old Tracheodon. To get to the Upper Rim either hike up the gentle slope before or after the scree slopes above the river but don’t attempt bee-lining up these as they are horribly slippery.
The Son Side
1)Old Tracheodon Wall,V3*** This is the first rock you’ll arrive at only minutes from the road. It’s unlike the rest of the valley-ugly limestone, but makes a good reference point for the rest of the topo.
a)Ironically this is one of the best routes in the valley.It takes the prow of the wall directly. Start far under at a cairn wedged in a cave.Come out linking super fun holds to a rest pocket, chalk up for the move to the jug. Prance up mossy holds to tree. b)Climb a yellow scar at the left end. The overhung wall behind the tree cover may produce some interesting traverses.
2)Dinosaur Bone, V2*** Walk the trail and before the scree, go up 20m into the woods. SS and go up the right arete using a nice crack. Get over the bulge on sweet jugs. Center route, V0, starts by jumpin to the jug then up to the next but needs a SS from under the lip to utilize the nice chalked up flake.
3)Yellow Fever,V0* From the left side of Dinosaur Bone, walk up the slope to the face in a minute. Climb up the center, go left over the bulge. It’s a nice warm-up on fun holds but a tad dusty especially on the topout.
4)G.I.Joe’s Boulder, VB/1 20m up from the trail on the flats. SS and paw the tricky one move wonder to jug topper.
5)BBQ Boulder,VB/1* Up off the main trail at base of scree. This rock has been extensively used as a campfire screen for some years as the picture shows but was scrubbed virtually to an original state. Pounds of soot and ash were displaced under rock crevasses. The best time still to play on it is in the winter when a dusting of snow will keep your pad spotless. SS from center and go left or go right on very nice crimps.
6)Shred-It Block,V1* From BBQ Boulder, hike straight up scree then go left(flags) into trees and back right. SS under sharp arete using sidepull, grab good hold, go up until its possible to catwalk the ramp off left. Going right looks better.
7)Sleepover, V0 Streaked wall below a choss cliff above Bison. Crouch to dish and finish right. Fun moves but crappy topout.
8)Sandbox Rocks,VB The trail goes left around these two chunks. Left traverse the rock in the phot. Right- SS up a small square block on jugs, designed for kids.
9)The Heuco Kid, V4*** One of the best problems on the Son side and would be a killer project for an older kid. Just down the trail from Sandbox Rocks in a sand trap . SS on the left, pinchers to choose from, fly to the big hueco.The broom in the pic shows the holding power of these features like the old Krazy Glue commercial of the worker held from the steel beam by his helmet.
10)The Son Boulder, VB-1*** Up the trail where the slide opens up, a tilted square block on the right. SS four different lines with really fun topouts onto a slab with accessible crimps.
11)Noah’s Ark, VB-3 SS and traverse the river face, not too great. SS and pull out of a overhung snout reaching for crimps,V3. The south end is a project.
12)Dora, VB Opposite the trail from The Son Boulder. Another novice pebble. SS from right and slap around left to a heuco.
13) Sam Houston Boulder, VB-3*** The biggest stone on the Son side. Climb a fingertip crack on the north face(right pic). Or on the west side along the scree- SS up the edge to a dish jug and pull over the overhung face to the top. The descent crack that follows the white streak may be a O.K. thing for a beginner. The corner facing the river has not been climbed.
14)Bikeseat, V3* Lay down on lichen floor rock and come over the direct crest of the overhung nose. Bit south of Sam Houston.
15)Who’s Next?, V0 Walk up the scree north from Sam Houston. Needs better staging. SS use pulls to big jug top, hard to make sense of.
Listed below are the problems that were done after the river shrunk and the snow melted away from the rock. A few are found near the Sandbox Rocks and the remainder can be found after an eight minute flat walk down the main trail from the Son Boulder following the river. They are not wonderful-the odd problem is only just whatever. However there is a very nice looking swimming hole near Cutter’s Way and The Beak is a neat line to play on. Binoculars didn’t reveal any rock across the river from here in the woods but who knows.
29)Bison, VB Above the trail before Sandbox. A face traverse warmup, sides out.
30)Evan’s Beach Soccer, V3* Just below Sandbox Rocks. Lay fully under the boulder on soft sand so a pad is unnecessary. Twisty moves to get out. May be good place to practice a Figure-4.
31)Cutter’s Way, VB* From the Son Boulder hike the trail for eight minutes to the first rock in this area which is just above the river. A wingspan SS, to jug fin and pop over rightward. Nice swimming holes nearby.
32)Helipad, V0 At scree base. SS from pocket.
33)Fishlips, VB* On the river bank. SS off white flake, move onto main rock and traverse around. A fall will be wet. Top is out.
34)The Beak, V4** Two boulders after the river turns at the base of a scree slope.Walk on trail through woods a few minutes from Helipad. It’s right below Garlic Bulb; SS underneath and crank over using the spine on nice rock.
35)Garlic Bulb, VB Largest/last stone out here. SS either end. The face is shattered bad. Sucks!