The Unknown Ascent of the North Face of Mt.Lefroy
Good Loving Gone Bad
FA- C.Wollen and M.Collins, late 1990s
It should likely be told that the north face of Mt.Lefroy had recieved an incredible ascent in the late 90s but due to the fact that only a few rambling pitches remained to the top, Cody Wollen and Matt Collins called it incomplete.
Wollen spotted the line in rear view mirror while heading up to Jasper and he and Collins made up to four attempts on it before the final push which Wollen says was one of the hardest full length routes in the range at the time. Good Loving was there proposed name since Wollen kept missing the morning alarm in Calgary due to a happy girlfriend at the time. The second best part of the trip was approaching the route through the Lake Louise Ice Festival with the ice palace and general cheer about as they headed away to a drip that snakes down the cusp of the huge right amphilitheatre of vertical rock that makes up the north face.
By the fourth attempt Wollen got dumped by his girlfriend so off they drove to Lefroy. Near the top, Collins led the crux pitch on bad ice and the two bivied above. The next day Wollen led off up thin WI4 above their one hand drilled bolt. Wollen managed to get two bad pieces in snow, then his arms went numb.
After three hits against the face, Good Loving Gone Bad, became the new route name. Wollen made a 40m dive until a sloping ledge of snow stopped him. He was able to make it up to the belay with Collins yarding on him.
“After seeing me almost die,” Wollen watched Collins lead the pitch the rope went for a test drive on. He did this to get up and put in a solid anchor. Wollen’s knee was destroyed and was in a bad way, so Collins took care of his partner and they rapped the route and bivied on the lower snow slope. A day later they walked through that ice castle and all that Canadian winter cheer.