Guide’s Route, Morro Peak

FA- H.Schwarz

This is a very obscure route with some funny fixed protection along the way, watch for buried pitons! It will likely be described at greater length in some future Jasper guidebook or if you are so lucky to find someone who owns a copy of Dave Robinson’s complete guide from 1999 you can get a play-by-play there. Best just to head up to Gravity Gear in the town and ask for a topo or beta. Park in the obvious south lot past the bridge and at the road-rockcut. Hike up the trail and onto the open bald ridge.

Morro Slab and peak is about 20km north of Jasper on the Yellowhead and the great beginner crag above the river is a wonderful place to take just about anyone to laze away on some greasy TR’s. Further up and into the trees is a sport climbing crag with some great and not so good lines. And if you continue around along the Overlander Trail for 1.5kms roughly you should be able to spot the ancient Guide’s Route which is the obvious chimney near the middle of the entire sweeping south face. Expect about 7 pitches at mostly 5.3-5.5, however the crux pitch is super fun. If you get lost it’s not too hard to get back on route. Prepare for amazing views of the Jasper valley!

Once into the final forest, find game trails that lead kinda back down and west to the Overlander. Above this treed descent area and the true Morro Peak summit is a line of limestone walls with some very tempting corners. Go explore.