Ivana Humpalot, 5.7, 135m
FA – G.Cornell and G.Macrae, July 1999
Ivana Humpalot ascends an unnamed SE face directly above the sport climbing venue named Kilowatt Crag, south of Wasootch Creek. Those unfamiliar with this area, it’s the bend in the road that you would pull off on the east side of the #40 on a short dirt track leading to an old open pit.
Hike up the drainage for 45 minutes following an overgrown creekbed. About 200m beyond where a second water-course joins the main one, hike up into the gully that now splits the two large grey humps of the peak. Surmount a short wall, then hike to the base not far beyond.
The route takes the arete of the left hump(main summit) on solid stone throughout.
Pitch 1 – climb the shallow brown water runnel on the slab to a bolt. Continue right around the overhang(crux – 3″ cam needed) and go up the crack to flats. Go chill spot. Go up steep runnels to an open book with a nut/bolt belay. (50m, 5.7)
Pitch 2 – go straight up the ridge and over a steep spot to a belay on a small ledge. (30m, 5.6)
Pitch 3 – climb a short steep corner above passing a fixed piton. Continue up to a grassy ledge and a two-bolt belay. (30m, 5.6)
Pitch 4 – go up left to a horn belay.(25m, 5.4) From here scramble to the summit soon after.
Descent: hike down the ridge to the road.
Have gear will travel: all cams, Tri-Cams, small nuts, no pitons. Must have a 3″ cam to protect the crux.
Ivana Humpaless – 5.6, 260m
FA-Jonathan and Aidan Lytton, June 2004
This route was found by accident on a cold spring weekend while navigating towards the Cornell/Macrae route Ivana Humpalot (see 2004 Edition).The route follows a series of gullies, slabs and ledges leading up and rightward to the skyline slabs marking the first hump. The climbing is generally quite easy on mostly excellent rock, although the line is less than aesthetic. Protection is all natural gear, the route is a little runout in places, and rope drag is often bad. This gully system drains the main face of the hump, and thus rockfall as well as water runoff during a storm make for big hazards.
Park on the east side of the #40 south of Wasootch Creek as for Kilowatt Crag at a big bend. Hike up the open grassy pit to the antenna. Follow the overgrown creekbed.After surmounting the first massive boulder that forms a sort of chockstone in the centre of the approach gully, continue and pass another massive boulder just to the right of the creekbed, and then the first of two large boulders just to the left. You are now roughly level with the first drainage coming in from the slopes to the right. Find a low spot in the short cliffband on your left, surmount this and scramble up scree left-ward heading toward the low point of an obvious rightward trending ramp system. Follow this up and right until its end and the appearance of the obvious gully and ledge system on the left that marks the climbing route. Scramble left up water worn rock to a bay with 3 trees on the right. Belay.
1.) 40m, 5.4/5. Climb up over easy shelves, then either up a water-worn runnel or more textured rock to the right (tricky gear) and over a lip at its right side to a small ledge below a steep slab. Belay using small gear in a crack on the floor of the ledge(may need to clear away rubble).
2.) 55m, 4-5th class. Ignore the tempting slab and head off right up an easy corner/gully and into flats. Good belay in a vertical crack on a corner to the left, at close to rope length.
3.) 45m, 5.5R. Scramble up and left toward the main wall. Go up a short step into a right-trending “off-width” crack/gully which is hard to protect but not very steep(bigger gear may help). Belay at a tree in a little cave/ledge on the left.
4.) 55m, 5.6. Step up and left off the ledge and make a balancy move back right into the obvious gully/corner. Follow up this right-trending offwidth( better pro!). When it eases off, climb a crack/flake up the face(crux) to easy ledges and belay at the first small tree to the right. Bad drag!
5.) 50m, 5.5. Traverse to the left and slightly downward across easy ledges to a steeper corner with excellent pro and easy solid prickly rock. Belay at top, just a few steps below the ridge crest. A direct line from the belay up and right may make a better summit finish.
6.) 15m, 5.4. Follow steps and ledges first up and then left until they intersect with the ridge crest.
60m rope and medium cams to 3”. Small TCUs and/or aliens needed for the first belay.