Aid Abandonment, A4, Kanga Crag
FA- J.Milburne, 1997
This unnamed aid route forces itself up a slabby wall right of the sport climb Superior Cackling Chickens and just left of a ugly left facing corner on Kanga Crag. Park at Whiteman Pond on the Smith-Dorien and hike the trail to Kanga Crag in 10 minutes. Follow up along the wall to the sport route ‘SCChickens.’ Get cracking by aiding to the first of Milburne’s bolts (freeclimbable). The rest are widely spaced up the dark grey slab for about 30m. Link each bolt using only an array of hooks, beaks; pins may help. The bolts just end somewhere below the roof so ascentionists should be prepared to continue up or set an anchor. The bolts were hand-drilled solo on lead. James seems to be pursuing other interests leaving this Kanga artpiece up for auction.