Keelhaul Wall 90s Variation, 5.7R
FRA- G.Cornell and G.Macrae, Summer 1995
Maybe it was never climbed before, who knows, but was not included as a variation in any publication known thus far.
The route Gray Waves is now a sport climb, which crosses over Keelhaul at the 3rd belay and diagonals up under the roof and away. This variation starts from the belay on Keelhaul and goes up near the roof and around its right end. The 90s Variation then goes up a short groove(as seen in the photos below) and pops out left onto a slick slab. Carefully move left to a fixed piton in a groove on the slab. Follow it up and left to a small tree belay (bolts would be awesome here) – best to have a 60-70m rope for this pitch also. Also cams #2-4 are good to have.
Head up and right (pins) and finish as for Gray Waves, or dodge left and finish as for Keelhaul Wall.
Descend as for all Kid Goat routes: walking off to the north.
The book cover was shot about a year after the 1995 ascent.