Mt.Lawson East Face Direct
FA – G.Cornell, Aug.2005
Every summer must have an epic – so this is the 2005 winner:
Parked along Fortress Ski Road and bushwacked a number of kilometers back south under the east facing cliffs of Mt.Lawson. At the grandest avalanche slope, a rocky gully was taken to reach the base of the east face. From here a route zig-zagged up fun, third-class bands and worked up right to a right.
After a short crux wall of ten feet, more ridge until a traverse right to a black water seeping band where it is climbing (4th) to gain the final slopes of orange rock. Regain the ridge and final cliff to end up right at the summit cairn. Fog rolled in fast obliterating the descent gully so sans compass and map, a scree gully was taken to the west valley known as Kent Creek – a trail-less, bear skat, 9km nightmare that took 5.5hours to vacate: side-hilling steep flowery meadows, multiple creek crossings, and heavy deadfall. Once out of the bush, soggy feet tramped down Hwy#40 for 7km until a RCMP officer got a call of a man alone at midnight, so he answered the call and shuttled a bagged climbing fool.