Medicine Lake Boulders
routes described here August 2006, G.Cornell
The boulders spread around the west edge of Medicine Lake are a wonderfully idyllic way to cap off a day or to start one. Although the rock is somewhat sharp in spots it is very solid and is of interesting features and bizarre texture. From Jasper, drive to Medicine Lake in about 1/2 hour and park either at the main tourist viewpoint at a sharp bend or park 1/2 km before at a small parking area. Either way, a trail will lead you into the boulders within minutes. The south side of the lake has the best potential and lots of hard lowball ideas are to be plucked. The north side has a neat cracked rock very close to the tourist stairs and a few minutes further walking will get you to good but limited problems. Do you like to boulder next to a shimmering lake? The problems get better the further you walk out towards the peninsula where the area’s best boulder awaits.
A) Piranha Crack(V1) move under steep lip on the left and follow the crack up very prickly rock. Use a spotter.
B)Medicine Lake Slab(V0) good starter. Up slab center.
C)Scuba Steve(V0) easy, beautiful juggy face.
D)Blowfish Blowhard Slab(V1,HB) really nice face with a few alternates. Climb central right without grabbin the ridge, but following this is also a nice warm-up.
E) Evil Squid(V2) sit-start right prow and haul up on cool, juggy rock. One of the best lines out here so far.
F)Plenty of Fish(V1, HB) a for sure classic. Can be seen from parking lot as the black rock appearing to sit out in the water. The best line here. Follow the obvious thin crack on the overhung west face to a sweet finish.
G)Meadowlark(V0) follow north lake trail to road to meadow, then around to this rock. Sit-start the south face and make traversing moves.Walking east gets you to an inlet with more unknown rocks.