Mt.Kidd East Face, 5.6
FA – J.Martin, Aug. 1998
This is a striking direct line obvious from all corners of the valley. It’s too involved for casual scrambler and may be too light for the hardcore which puts in a category everyone may love- the moderate. The first ascentionist avoided the optional long rising traverse(B) and chose a more direct way.Wait till the face is snow-free.
Park at Galatea, hike Terrace Trail for 30min., go up left thru trees to open slopes. Start somewhere on the cliff right of Sinatra Falls. Go up the easy face to a ledge; follow it right to its’ end below a steep band; take a not-so-obvious rampy feature up left for a nice 30m of 5.6; at the cliff top, go up broken rock to grass to good rubble to the big gully. Scramble up the upper face gully on nice ground either to the left or right. Where the main gully splits at a prominent undercut band, find a break to the right that goes back over a bulge to the left, then a slabby and exposed traverse back into the gully. Take a short 5.6 bit up a steep water streak and over a bulge on great rock.
The big upper wall is got thru by a going left into a smooth water-worn groove(5.4):stem good rock to a large scree ledge up and right and plod to the summit ridge in minutes. Descend the normal scramble route.
This same line was done years later as a mixed waterfall ice line by R.Slawinski and partner.