New Dawn, A1+ 20m
FA- G.Cornell, June 2003
An awesome splitter crack(for the CMC Valley). Hike over Yamnuska and drop into the CMC Valley. Hike up to The Runes, then take a good trail under Frodo Buttress. The line is above the trail on a detached white wall under the route Kazak. Take gear up to 2”. To make it worth the hike, make a sit-start just right under a tiny roof, go past a piton and aid or freeclimb up the straight crack. The crux is moving through the upper section of the crack. Move right and back left to a 2-bolt belay. Rap the route.
In the Spirit of the Toque, A2, 10m, Yamnuska
FA- G.Cornell, Oct.30, 2001
A short but vertical bulging micro seam on white rock 50m right of Red Shirt next to Excalibur. The crack is good but the surrounding rock is flakey and chips easily and is meant to stay a practice aid line. For gear take RP’s, micronuts, Tri-Cams, and some gear to 2”, but no pitoning. Aid the seam over a bulge, pass a rivet, to a 2-bolt and piton belay. This route may have become a ghost, thus, more obscure when climbers find it a million years from now.
New update! Looks like it has been rap bolted to 22m mark with a mid-12 grading. Can I have my rivet hanger back?
Not sure why its called ‘Tongue’ in recent topos? haha