Outer Sanctuary Boulders, Yoho
Routes by G.Cornell, July 2016
The name Outer Sanctuary is given to this tiny bouldering circuit to simply remind those not to walk into the inner sanctuary of moss carpets! You shouldn’t have a problem if you follow the bits of flagging/cairns around a somewhat animal trail(easy to follow)and link up the boulders everything will be fine, as the main moss beds terminate at this animal paths’ edges – it is not flagged from Art Noire Boulder west and south back to the road but has been scoped. Its very pretty to look at this large moss bed but please do not cross it, if you want to explore boulders further west and back south, follow around the outter edge where its just mostly bush and your not trampling on moss beds and it saves no time as the distance to road at any point is less than 10 minutes and you will be a total zipperhead if you walk across any moss. Or start further west down the road near the unclimbed pyramid boulder and scramble up a boulder slope and follow the bush around the edge of where the unclimbed boulders sit to the SW. From the car to the furthest rock is about 10 minutes max. There is a very obvious pyramid shaped boulder near the Tak road, about 15m into the woods but did not seem to have any signs of attempt on a first visit here in 2006 and still no sign, currently unclimbed. Beautiful setting with nice views of Cathedral Crag.
Drive up the Takakkawa Falls road and park at within a few kilometers at the parking area for Meeting of the Waters Confluence.
Walk down west about 30m out of the parking area, and with caution, cross the busy Tak road to the opposite side and slip into the trees at a small opening where an angled scrubby vegetated boulder is.
The first boulder problem is about 20m further walk in and starts low in small hole.
1) Exidor, V0 - drop your pad into the hole and start low and traverse left on reddy rock to the arete/jug.
From Exidor, walk NW around a fallen tree to an obvious boulder with currently two lines:
2) Weemawee Boulder, V0/1 - start on the west side and traverse left to the white rock and go directly up the small blocky overhang to a mantle finish. Or start on the true north face left of the white rock and go up an angled crack to the top. Walk off.
From Weemawee, walk west, hop a fallen log to a tiny clearing where a large tree passes over a boulder then go west up a natural alley. From here go north a bit to a tall steep triangular boulder with one crack line:
3) Panting Locomotive, V1 – start low on the right end of the steep boulder and climb the handjam crack, mantling off. Walk off the back. The main overhung face and crack are unclimbed.
Instead of going north to the Panting Locomotive crack, go around west to an obvious large, smooth, brown block with a deep mat of moss atop it. This is the Art Noire boulder and has two problems on it, the east face.
4)Art Noire East Face, V3 - start near the overhung arete of the east and south face and traverse on black and brown rock until you can use the big bucket protrusion as help to make it up. Go left to exit or downclimb and hang-drop to your pad. Nice and fun!
5) False Front, V0 - starter problem to the east face- traverse small dark scruffy wall but due to the moss, please don’t topout.