Sibbald Corners Bouldering
routes from 2004 – 2017
Quick access bouldering from Calgary along a quiet stretch of road. From Hwy#1, go south for Sibbald Flats and go west into K-Country. Soon after passing the Powderface-Sibbald Road Junction, continue west on Hwy #68 as it weaves through a tight treed valley. The boulders on the Corners begin just west of Sibbald Meadows Pond Day-use, the majority being in a stretch of road just after the Texas gate cattle guard- if the road opens up to cutblocks and begins to start descending downhill, you have gone too far west. Bring a pad to all these spots. Some of these routes appeared in the zine Kananaskis Obscure back in 2004 but have been played around, cleaned, attempted, climbed etc for well over a decade.
A topo will be made and posted in Autumn…..
A – Siesta VB/0- just west of Sibbald Pond at a bend in the road is a small meadow. From the meadow, pass a tiny shelf, and back into woods 100m. Go over left overhang just right of crack and up. Center could be done. Fun, flat spot.V0 (no photo)
B – Crack68 V0- at the same meadow, walk west 50m to an obvious crack(now behind well grown spruce tree) above the ditch. SS in cutaway, up arete, left to crack, layback it to finishing mantel move. Off left. Fun entertainment.V0
C – D8 Cat Rocks- Park at 65km sign just west of the ice climb called Solstice where an old piece of road is a bit upslope. Walk up the hill to first rock(50m). SS off flake, dyno up. Second rock is10m behind: an improbable smooth face with cave. Hands on the smooth arete, up to good top rail and off. Third rock: go up 15m to flat wall behind tree. Only right arete done from SS, face undone. All of these rocks may be unclimbed after a storm blew some trees down in the mid-2000s?
D- Grandpa Face, V1 – white bulging boulder and one of the best lines on Sibbald Corners. Start on the right and traverse left out to the arete and mantle up. Found in the woods across from a clearing south of the road.Look for orange metal marker on tree and go from there.
E – Traverse Amazonia, V0- somewhere along the road find a bowed spruce and maybe flags, go into woods briefly. you should have to duck under a large fallen tree next to the rock. Traverse wall left to right using horizontal crack.
F – Upper Boulders, V0- Two dark looking boulders can be seen from the road about 50m east of Lil Fang. Find cairn and flags from the ditch below the rocks and hike up. Only lower stone has been climbed on. Climb near the arete and go up. Details are lost. May have more variations.
G – Lil Fang, VB- first line cleaned along here in 2004. Seconds from the road. Jam the crack to the top.
H – Roadside Route, V1- found on the other side of the ditch ,can be swampy early in the spring. Go up from a low start.
I – open overhang project. The largest boulder out here with a cool overhung west face(photo with boy and grandpa lounging), 50m from the road. Cleaned a bit.
J – Crud Buddies, VB/0- two boulders near each other. Found upslope from the open project overhang. The exact location of these Sibbald Corner boulders may be confusing or mixed-up as they have not been visited in many years but where mentioned in the 2005 Kananaskis Obscure zine.
K- Stormtrooper Slab, V2- another old scrubbed rock found also upslope and likely just east of Micronaut. Start on left of this white faced boulder with a smooth grey top which is traversed to the right.
L – Micronaut, VB- fun little boulder found further east on the upper slope.
M – Cornersweep Traverse, V0- location is somewhere upslope from the open project , maybe to the west. Ramp like boulder, start low on low end and traverse up to the higher end, bit mossy in spots.
N – The Bunnock, V0+ – another chunk of rock that has unsure directions over the years- somewhere on the slope. Explore.
O – Sibbald Crack, V3+ – if you drive too fast you will miss this cool chunk of rock split by a funky crack. Has been attempted many times since 2004 but finally ascended by Brendan Clark after the top-out got a good solid cleaning. Grade is up for debate. Give it a try, certainly the best boulder on Sibbald Corners. The arete on the right above the ground slab has not been attempted. (FA- B.Clark, May 2017)