Sibbald-Powderface Cliff Intro
The Sibbald-Powderface region is now one of the closest roped rock climbing areas to Calgary. The cliffs are anywhere from 5 minutes to upwards of an hour to approach, some easy strolls, others are uphill grinds, some have great rock that is hard sandstone with great gear cracks, while some cliffs have good rock mixed with not-so-great rock and bands of pure deplorable rock. Always wear a helmet here.
Many of the cliffs along the Sibbald Road(Hwy#68) can be rock climbed in warm winter spells and have an early season generally as the snow melts off the south-facing approaches sooner than most areas. Please follow the hiking way mentioned to avoid lots of unnecessary trails seen in some areas.
Sibbald Lake Campground makes a perfect basecamp for climbing in the Sibbald-Powderface area and is open from Spring-early Fall. There is a tenting area and trailer area, and the usual facilities that go with camping however there is no flush toilets, showers or store, but there is a playground and a very nice camp host. Many nice hiking opportunities exist near the lake and near the meadow to the west of the campground.
At certain times of the year, hunting is allowed in specific parts of the Sibbald-Powderface region and you should be aware of which and when that is, but does not mean the region is off-limits to the public. Carry a whistle to possibly warn others you are nearby if it is of concern to you. Report poachers if you think an infraction has occurred.
Do not add any new bolts to routes you have not established yourself for any reason whatsoever as the hangers will be removed. However, please help further develop these crags with new routes as you see fit -all the cliffs in the area were established as gear climbs with bolts only where necessary. Unless your line is on the stunning black-rusty rock, you will be doing some amount of trundling to clean the line. To those who may want to create winter mixed routes, not sure this is the place for that, but if you insist please climb like a super star and avoid making crampon scrape marks on the rock.
It is wise to carry bugspray, sungoo, a whistle, bearspray and watch out for ticks in the spring – despite its’ closeness to Calgary and being away from the mountain-mountains, there are many wild animals roaming about, so take caution! Uphill grinds are best done with ski poles. A number of routes have one bolt to anchor off/hang backpack as some slopes below are steep enough to have your pack roll down outta control!
DISTANCES TO CLIFFS FROM THE SIBBALD-POWDERFACE JUNCTION:
to Curio Crag is 3.7km
to 70 Buck Ridge is 4.1km
to 5 Minute Crag is 7.6km-7.9km depending which part of the cliff you desire
to 5 Mile Rappel is 7.7km
to At One With Nature is 8km
to Sibbald Crack Boulder and other stones is 8.5km
to The Stump is 8.9km
to Anasazi House is 9.7km
to Old Growth is 9.7km
to Eohippus is 11.7km
to Summer Evening Crag is 11.7km
to Coveted Birds Boulders is 1.5km
to Bunchgrass Boulders is 4.85km
to Haunted Hill/Cougar Rocks is 5.5km
to The Sands is 6.2km
to the Cutblock is 6.6km
to North Bridge Cliff is 7.9km
to Jumpingpound Block is 19.3km