The Gap Bouldering
cleaned summer/Fall 2006 G.Cornell
The Livingstone Gap has a few areas of bouldering that are worth a visit as the rock is different from nearby Frank. Located about 25km up a good gravel road west of Hwy #22 the boulders can be seperated into four sections: The Gap, Daisy Creek,Dutch Creek and Racehorse Creek. There is enough problems to fill one solid day. The absolute best time to go is after late August to October when the river is at it’s lowest point. Hip waders may still be needed to cross at The Gap proper in autumn, less likely at Daisy and not needed at all for Racehorse or Dutch Creek. The rock seems more solid and featured than limestone with some conglomerate mixed in. Other old trad routes have been done on the walls nearby across the river.
For The Gap Bouldering: drive around the S-curve bend where the walls across the river tower above and park at a small pullout where a boulder sits mostly in the river or just below the fun Reservation Slab sport climbs. Walk over the embankment and find a few boulders strung out along the river. Strap on some waders possibly to access the big split boulder or the white block easily seen sticking out of the upper north forest. A third boulder of high-quality looking rock can be found by dropping down to the river just before the road bends into the Gap. For it, park where an old road sneaks up toward a cliffband. Scramble down to the river, cross it, and find manicured holds on smooth grey rock. If you have climbed any lines prior to 2006, let us know!
1)Tide is High(VB) below the pullout and far west of the Gap set here, boulder mostly in the river. Fun VB moves or harder west face with a pool landing.
2)Rock Bottom(V0) one of two small outcrops west of Reservation Slab also. Sit start neat slick holds, traverse left past a right-facing corner.
3)Cue Ball(V0) slick traverses or concoct a very hard sit-start up the short tufa features on this stand alone pebble.
4)Rum Doodle Boulder(V0-3) directly below Reservation Slab; go off stained ground rock, to cracks and very positive knobby finish holds. Climbing outta the right overhung corner is very fun too. This is the best boulder listed here in the Gap section.
5)The Big Trout(V0) traverse around the entire arete of the left split boulder on good stone. Easy HB’s and short inventions to do. Obvious split boulder across the river.
6)Cockatoo Quill(V0) obvious from the road as a white tilted face; this face is very featured but very sharp on the fingers and shoes. Only a five minute hike from the river,wall of many eliminates. Climb east arete or up from a yellow patch on the right. Up and left of this square block a few hundred meters is a good looking streaked wall with a tree patch above, may be worthy?
7)Likely unclimbed but worth trying out, the rock looks good and is littered with holds, but you must cross the river after hiking down the embankment, may be a perfect hot summer day fool around.