The Bum Tree
routes G.Cornell 2002
This crag is situated up Prairie Creek, seen as a grey band from the road but obscured from the main trail thanks to a sea of arching alders. It faces south and is a 10 minute walk. The rock is pocketed slab or overhung jugs with limited scope, yet an upper crag 7min. away may have potential.The landings are good and the path along the base is fair, dusting new FAs will be easy.
From Hwy#66, hike Prairie Creek to the first bridge. Cross it and go back west along a scruffy cliff. Before a slide, hook back up north on a trail-like depression and follow it to the horizon where it fades. Scramble up to a group of pines in the alders – one has a curious deformation which named the crag. **As of 2008, few lines are not possible thanks to a large fallen tree.
1) Perfect Bum Crag- mini crag with a number of lines
2)2000Flushes(VB) warmup traverse from right to left, stay low under bulge to end in blueish stone.
3)Centuar Booty(V0) left edge of dusty wall; yellow hold to highblock, topout over overlap. Hike off left. Nice clean line.
4)Dimples(VB) up to jug, then higher jug with bush, go off right downclimbing.
5)Sores(VB) up pale rib to shallow ledge w/ bush, left on eyeholes, down.
6)T.P. Route(V1) at fat alder, up slab to 3 eye sockets to sidepull, take the ledge, go down across using shallow holes to exit. Good route.
7)Depends(V0) before the bay: use cheatstone. Use 2 jugs, go left to killer jug in next slab over.
8)Fisting(V1) start on yellow ground rocks in bay’s center. One digit eye/side pull, toss to big pocket and go right to another jug and jump off. Another fun line.
Upper Bum Tree
Established 2002/2008 by G.Cornell
A few of the described lines were climbed around 2002 but have been freshly cleaned and were again worked out in 2008. A large tree fell at the original lower Bum Tree crag blocking some of the routes and the trail so probably it’s best to go to the much better Upper Bum Tree only a further 5 minutes up the hill. The sun comes out strong here so the season is long. Walk up Prairie Creek Trail to the first bridge and once across, angle back east paralleling the creek to a slope. Hike up west zig-zag to the original Bum Tree lower crag. A seperate good crag to its’ left – Perfect Bum Crag – has some fun established problems and projects to try. Hike above here to the Upper Bum Tree crag arriving in a few minutes. The flagged trail should exit with all the established problems to the left(west). Still more projects to work on up here. The rock is great in most spots.
Jesse James Meets Frankenstein’s Daughter(V4) SS under the ‘hang by the bush. Go up, crab crawl left.
Ceuse(V2) traverse the streaked bay on good incuts, good warmup
Annecy(V1) from the arete of the next wall traverse left on good jugs for 3m
Navarra Moon(V0) from the crack with the bush go left to a wicked jug before the ledge
So Cal(V1) climb the dark corner go out right under the mini-roof to a big ledge
Fass Black(V1) climb the concave groove next door watch the dicey finish
Cottage Cheese(V3) from the right yellow ledge go left, crux: drop to a choss hole at the arete
project – not figured out yet
Bodhi’s Route(V4) long traverse leftward to a monkey hang rest on the arete. Slap the hole…Bodhi finish it!
Grindhouse(V3) on steep grey slab at the spike; left to the hole, up to a bad ledge, go right.