established October 2006, G.Cornell
**This is included mostly for historical note as since the twinning along this stretch of the Trans-Canada, Duty Free bouldering would be a unworthy to stop at, given the dangerousness of the highway now in 2013. I guess you could park at the Alberta-BC border sign, about 1km east and walk in through the woods. It was fun quartzite while it lasted. Notice as you drive by the foliage in the pictures does not really exist anymore and some faces may have been blasted away**
Duty Free is a nice easy stop with the exception of the heavy traffic noise coming off the Trans-Cananda, however some may find that soothing. The rock is very compact quartz that is quite clean yet some topouts are a bit fungal in spots. Takes a bit more for the rain to penetrate the canopy so if it’s sprinkling out you may play a touch longer here. The established problems are concentrated in one area but there are some other walls in the woods further east and even since the new twinning of the highway may be still climbable and hidden from view.
From the Alberta/B.C. border drive west about 1km and park carefully off the highway at a 200m sign and guardrail and look for a cairn. Pop into the woods and either go left or up and right below a short wall.
A)Cabover(VB) SS under wall and go up on easy jugs.
B)Cornell-Squarepants Route(V1) traverse this long, low wall.
C)Pink Slip(V0) climb pink wall and left arete next to tree, fun.
D)Burning Inside(V3) hard SS off pull, dyno to sloped jug, go right across wall ‘n under overhang.
E)Manana(V1) SS off horn, up to jugs go right to dead tree.
F)Rift(V0) SS cave go up left arete. Don’t touch right flakes!!
G)The Perfect War(V1) after strugglin with the unclimbed rounded buttress, this is what you get thus far: start up left wall, pass horizontal cracks ending left from short traverse.
H)Peace Out(V0) climb nice stepped arete across the gully.
I)Mountain Climbing(V0,HB) from big ledge, go up left into shallow seam and bit left to nice topout.
J)Donkey Driver(V1) @ yellow block go up and left.
K)Being All Sharma(V2) SS right ‘hang, dyno to rail, go left makin a cruxy drop down at the nose, good times.
Blood Platelets Slide
established August 2007
From Trans-Canada at Field, drive north up seasonal Takakkaw Falls road until about 2km from the end where a red slide of rocks touches the road at an ‘S’ curve. Park on shoulder just beyond. Hike up right edge for 5 min. to big overhung boulder in trees(unclimbed). 10m above is a cracked slab(V0 traverse). 20m above that and right is a steep loose-looking wall on fun holds.
This Prom Puts Out(V2) SS the gnarly face and be sure to finish. Very eerie looking problem.
The big black wet block near the road needs serious drying to be of use. On the same road, about 200m before “Meeting of the Waters” pullout is some broken rock in the woods. Behind this is a triangular north face which one day may produce a funky problem.
Takakkaw Falls North Ending
established August 2007, G.Cornell
May be stepping on some toes by reporting this but at least here is some information to some boulders further north from what is already been written about. What I love about the boulders at Takakkaw Falls is that every rock has its’ own personality in color, shape and makeup, making it never a boring experience.
Park and walk to the falls then take a side trail into the woods north for a few minutes to the main area. Locate the ‘Girlfriend Boulder’ and just stroll north a minute. First problem in this very expandable circuit is directly east of a boulder beside the river.
A)5 Bees Bite(V0) climb the juggy arete but on the steep face side.
B)Spiderweb Block(V0) an obvious flat topped long, low boulder near the river. Climb the left arete avoiding creepy crawlies and hand traverse right using the top for 10m engaging the crux just near the end.
C)Annapurna’s Rear(VB) Go up fun south ledges to start it off. Then head to the north side, and SS the left face off a flake(V3). Try the evil right face on tiny holds(V4). Project faces the river.
D)Surf 2(VB) like similiar route in the main area. Mostly to draw attention too this funky topple of rock. The finger- tip crack on the wall behind will be a very unique accomplishment.
E)Lonely Cause(V2) a concave face. Go up centre to a crack then to jugs up and over. Should see a ‘S’ crack face to the north upon finishing.
F)Alyssa Alps(V1) behind Lonely Cause is a neat slab of humps. Go to the SE frontal face and climb directly up a fun orange streak.Walk down the humps. Named after a stripper that lived on the same street as the first ascentionist.